Auto Maintenance Tips you can do yourself

 


 

Everyone should know by now that the average person can't tinker much with computerized modern cars. But those cars still have items such as four wheels, an engine and brakes. So there are simple checks and maintenance that can be done by car owners to keep an auto humming and to prevent problems. There's even a correct way to gas up at during the summer.

 


 

First, keep your eye out for leaks and your ears open for noises.
Always park outside during the day while checking your vehicle. The light is better and you avoid dangerous exhaust fumes found in enclosed areas. Apply the parking brake and put the automatic transmission in the "Park" position so you don't get rolled over.
Drive the car until it's warmed up to generate possible leaks, but remember that an auto that's been driven has extremely hot parts.
Never check under a vehicle supported by only a jack; there's too much danger that the jack will loose pressure. Always support using jack stands. Leave under-body checks to the pros.
Look for leaks after pulling the car a short distance from where it has been parked for a while after being driven.
Here's how to identify various leaks by their color and smell:
* Antifreeze is usually green, with a sweet odor.
* Engine oil is dirty brown or black. 
* Automatic transmission fluid typically is a light red.
* Battery acid can best be identified by its rotten-egg odor. Be careful because it's extremely corrosive.
* Brake fluid looks much like water--but don't confuse it with condensation from the air conditioner.
* Gasoline has a sharp smell.
* Gear oil from manual transmissions is dark or black and smells like sewage.
* Windshield washer solvent is blue and smells like alcohol.
Keep the washer fluid level high. A clean windshield doesn't fog up as quickly or completely as a dirty one. Wiper blades should be replaced every spring; even one Chicago winter seriously erodes their effectiveness.
No leaks? Or, at least only tiny ones that you just need to keep an eye on? Well, get in and listen for strange noises as you drive.
If you hear squealing, especially when starting the engine, the cause probably is a loose or worn drive belt. Pinging means the engine requires a tune-up, or you need to use higher octane gasoline. If road bumps bring out clunks and rattles, the suspension or steering components may need work. Or there could be loose exhaust system parts.
That growling or grinding noise when turning? The wheel bearings probably need replacement. A more common sound comes from a bad muffler, which generates a sudden increase in exhaust noise. It's fairly normal if disc brakes emit occasional minor squeaking during light or moderate applications. But high-pitched squeaking when brakes are applied could be caused by a loose brake pad or glazed pads or rotors.
Stop and check the engine oil level. But let the car sit for 10 minutes to allow the oil to drain into the pan at the bottom of the engine so you get an accurate reading. Engine oil really should be checked after a car has been sitting overnight.
Oil is an engine's lifeblood. It lubricates, cools, cleans and cushions engine parts. The owner's manual probably will recommend 5W-30 or 10W-30 multigrade oils for summer use. Top mechanics say that a "straight" 30-weight oil is best in summer because it won't "thin out" as much under summer's hot driving. The more costly synthetic oil? It's really only needed for "extreme" driving conditions, such as towing.
Religiously change engine oil and the oil filter every three months, or 3,000 miles. That's absolutely one of the best things you can do for your car. In fact, changing oil every 1,500 miles is even better if you do lots of stop-and-go driving.
Check tire pressures. Studies show that few make that check, but those pressures seriously affect your car's ride, handling, steering and braking--not to mention tire life. Look for the car-mounted sticker that provides the correct inflation pressures, although you may need the owner's manual to find it. It helps to inflate tires a few pounds above factory recommended pressures. Don't forget the spare tire.
When refueling, remove the gas cap slowly in hot weather to let built-up pressure in the tank dissipate--often with a hissing sound.
Stop refueling when the nozzle shuts off; you don't want to overfill the tank because a part of it should be left empty to handle vapors when the gasoline expands.
Don't use a higher octane gasoline than your owner's manual recommends, unless use of such fuel prevents pinging in cars with more than 20,000 miles on them. In that case, gunk in the cylinders has effectively raised the engine's compression ratio--and thus higher octane fuel is needed.
Nobody wants to be stuck with an overheated car, so make sure engine compartment hoses are tight and in good shape. Also check that the coolant level is correct and that the radiator cap is OK. If there's a mysterious loss of coolant, it might just be caused by a bad radiator cap. New caps are cheap.
Many drivers make lots of short trips in the summer. That's murder on an engine because it never has a chance to warm up fully and rid itself of internal poisons. So drive at 60 to 70 m.p.h. for about a half hour once a week.
If sightseeing in summer with a manual-transmission car, don't drive too slowly in too high a gear and "lug" the engine; that harms the bearings, especially those in today's smaller, higher revving engines.
Roof racks adversely affect handling and fuel economy, even when unloaded. But many vacationers feel they need one. If that's the case, drive a little slower and get a streamlined rooftop carrier. Or pack an open rack correctly, with the biggest objects at the rear and the smallest ones in front for the best aerodynamics.
Finally, no matter where you're traveling, you want your car to look good--if only to keep up its resale value. Give it a decent wax job. Liquid waxes are simpler to use than paste waxes, but you'll get the best protection from a paste wax.
After waxing, keep the car clean by washing it at least twice a month, especially if it's not garaged. But use one of the many auto wash products on the market--not household detergents, which are too harsh for today's car finishes. They'll destroy existing wax and wring the life from the paint--leaving it wide open to be damaged by the elements.